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Data from: Investigation of ph-dependent wash fastness of indigo carmine in replica and historical textile fibers

Abstract

Indigo carmine is a semi-synthetic blue dye encountered in historical textiles which poses conservation challenges due to its poor wash fastness and tendency to transfer during aqueous treatments. Textile fibers dyed with indigo carmine often exhibit color migration during conservation wet cleaning, complicating preservation efforts. Due to the nature of indigo carmine interactions with proteinaceous textile fibers, this study assessed whether the pH-dependence of the wash fastness of indigo carmine combined with absorbance spectroscopy could be utilized as a simple identification technique. First, the pH-dependent wash fastness of wool samples dyed with indigo carmine was assessed and compared to samples dyed with natural indigo and madder as a negative control. UV-Visible absorbance data collected from wash fastness tests conducted using water adjusted to pH 4, 5, 7, and 8.5 revealed strong pH dependence for only indigo carmine, with minimal dye migration at acidic pH, some dye migration at neutral pH, and the highest degree of dye migration occurring at pH 8.5. Negative controls samples of wool dyed with indigo and madder show no dye migration, indicated by no UV-Vis absorbance peaks present in the wash solution spectra. We optimize a pH-dependent microextraction test for few-fiber samples using sub-milliliter wash volumes, successfully identifying indigo carmine in both replica and historical samples, using UV-Visible absorbance spectroscopy. Finally, we demonstrate the positive identification of indigo carmine in select historical samples using the UV-Vis absorbance pH-dependent microextraction test. Overall, these findings contribute to the understanding of indigo carmine’s behavior and provide guidance for historical dye identification and decision making in textile conservation treatments.